Sunday, August 23, 2009

Cruising Around Europe: Warnemunde

Take a look at the ports on a typical Baltic Sea cruise itinerary:
Harwick
Amsterdam
Copenhagen
Stockholm
Helsinki
St. Petersburg
Tallinn
Berlin
Harwick
Ok, let's see.  One of London's two principal commercial ports,  one of Europe's most historic merchant ports, the headquarters of the world's largest shipping company... Berlin?!  Anyone who's ever read about the Berlin Airlift (never mind actually been there) knows Berlin is not a port.  In fact, it's a two-hour train journey from the Oostzee- the German name for the Baltic.  Cruise ships dock at the seaside resort town of Warnemunde, a long-time possession of the Hanseatic City of Rostock.

While most cruise passengers immediately hop on the train to Berlin, I strongly recommend staying in Warnemunde/ Rostock.  The round-trip from the coast to the dynamic German capital takes four hours- roughly half the time most ships stay in port;  Berlin demands more from visitors than an afternoon.  If all you want is to see the Wall from a bus window, just stay on board and look it up on Google.

More importantly, Rostock is a beautiful town in its own right and, often neglected by tourists, easy to navigate.  The crowds, such as they are, are only in the medieval Mariakirk, since the restoration effort blocks all but one entrance.  Even if you despise feeling like a herded sheep (and I completely understand), the massive vaulted ceilings are an architectural masterpiece.  Even better, since the ceilings are still coated in plaster, you aren't blinded by the faux gilt in most churches that suffered at the hands of Baroque vandals... er, artists.

The early medieval convent is a stark reminder that this orderly, comfortable town was not always so hospitable- more than a few unwanted young women were more or less imprisoned here, for alleged scandals or simple inconvenience.

The town square is entertaining and you might just find yourself wondering,
 "If this is what they memorialize in the town square, what the hell are they doing behind closed doors?!" 
(Note: This photograph is courtesy of Lynx-travel.com)

Don't worry.  The residents are just as embarrassed as you would be if there was a large sexually-suggestive fountain with children and farm animals in the center of your town.  This monument to the "socialist family" (seriously!) was imposed upon, er... given to the city by the East German government.  At least students at the University of Rostock have great stories to take home to Stuttgart.

Rostock's Hanseatic Brewery is not nearly as old as its name suggests, but it does produce an excellent pilsner in accordance with the genuinely aged German Purity Laws.  If you've ever seen a conveyor belt before, you needn't bother with the brewery tour since the "tour" is a climb up quite a few flights of stairs (no, there is not an elevator) to a viewing platform overlooking the bottling facility.  Just stay on the street level and enjoy the beer- the pils and a (solid, but undistinguished) lager.  Plus, they send you home with souvenir pils glasses.

Take advantage of your stopover here and get out and see the town.  Have an ice cream by Warnemunde's beach, or stroll through the center of Rostock.  Either way, you'll have spent the day much better than being cooped up and whizzed through Berlin.

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Some of My Favorite Places

  • Piazza de Navona
  • Savusavu, Fiji
  • Smuggler's Cove, Tortola
  • Marigot, St. Martin
  • Pirate's Alley, New Orleans
  • Darling Harbor, Sydney
  • Masai Mara Preserve, Kenya
  • Schevenigen, The Netherlands
  • Villefrance-sur-Mer, France