A Quick Tour of Spain: From Madrid

On the Fodor's Travel Forum (managed by my friend from college, Katie Hamlin), a writer asked for suggestions for traveling through Spain. I answered specific questions there, but am posting a cleaned-up version here in case any readers are also interested.

There are two obvious starting points in Spain, Madrid and Barcelona, and these lead to very different trips. Since I lived in Madrid for a year, I'll start there. It is very easy to spend four or five days in the Spanish capital, eating tapas, drinking cheap Rioja or tempranillo wine, and relaxing in the Retiro Park (I recommend the paddle boats in the lago and helados from the street vendors). That would be the "authentic" Madrileno experience. But since I have yet to meet the person who has any intention of flying across the Atlantic to relax, here's the whirlwind tour:

Assuming you are flying into Madrid's Barajas International Airport, enjoy the tapas- I recommend El Diamante's patatas bravas and anything from the former bull pens under the Plaza Mayor; the wines, especially granaja and tempranillo from La Mancha and Rioja. You should definitely make plans to visit the Segovian aqueduct and Alcazar (the exterior is enough to get the WOW! factor and great pictures, so save yourself the climb up and the admission price). Also, take the train to Toledo, where Europe's finest swords were made for centuries (and allegedly from where the United States' Marines still purchase their ceremonial sabres).  

"There's a church, there's a castle, there's another church, there's the bar. I'll be there if you need me."

Seriously, check out the city walls, wander through the streets, and just be there.

For other day trips out of Madrid, if you are renting a car, I'd recommend La Granja (an immense palace modeled rather convincingly after Versailles); Valle de los Caidos (that's the huge cross in the mountains that you can see from almost anywhere in Madrid; bear in mind though, that the cross and the monastery underneath it is a memorial/crypt for a fascist dictator-Franco- so be prepared to be a little creeped out while you marvel at the view of Madrid); and Chinchon, a quaint village with a Romanesque church where they still have bullfights in the Plaza Mayor (not in a bull ring) and you should spend siesta having drinks in a balcony overlooking the square. 

 

If you don't have a car, I would stay in Madrid instead of navigating the Spanish trains. You can easily spend a day each in the Prado (for the Velasquez's, at least), the Reina Sofia (seeing Picasso's massive Guernica should definitely be on your to-do list), the Retiro (rent a paddleboat and see the Egyptian temple, hauled back to Spain piece by piece), the Plaza del Sol/Plaza Mayor (spend one night eating at the taperias in the old bull pens). Finally, if you're up for it, see a bullfight in the Plaza de Toros. By the way, if you're interested in seeing a live bullfight, I'd suggest looking through Hemingway's Death in the Afternoon, still the best English-language book on Spain's peculiar institution, before you go so you'll understand what you're seeing. 

Well, now you're short for time so which should you see, Sevilla or Granada? I'd say it depends what your priorities are. Sevilla is more culturally important today- it is the home of the Sevillana (flamenco) dance and the Triana district is traditionally gypsy (though gentrification has changed this to a large extent). Also, Sevilla's Plaza de Toros is arguably the most prestigious is Spain and you might see a truly fascinating "first fight", again, if bullfighting is intriguing to you at all.  

Despite all that, for my money, I'd go with Granada. The Alhambra is indeed a staggering achievement- honestly, a work of art in stone- and you can see the Mediterranean Sea from the nearby mountains. Also, if you stay in Granada, you can take a day trip to the Costa del Sol. If you go to the coast, I'd recommend Malaga for its Gibralfaro (the castle/ former lighthouse) at the top of this post); Marbella/ Puerta Banus to see extravagance afloat; or Nerja (at right) to see the cave paintings.